Ambrette Seed Oil
The Latin Binomial of Ambrette seed oil is Abelmoschus moschatus and the part used is the seed for supercritical Co2 fluid extraction. It has ethical growing practice and the country of origin is India. The Ambrette seed oil odour type is floral.
The seed come from the large yellow flowers and has strong odour of animal musk. Supercritical co2 extraction ambrette seed oil has similar application to Ambrette seed absolute in fine, sophisticated perfumery to pass on a note similar to animal musk and it is optimization aged for several months before use, which will suppress the early fatty notes. It has a rich, sweet floral-musky odour, with a note similar to wine or brandy. The odour has intricacies somewhat characteristic of cypress, Bulgarian rose, clary sage and cognac.
About Ambrette Seed Oil
Ambrette is an aromatic and medicinal plant in the Malvaceae family, which is native to India. These seeds have a sweet, flowery, heavy fragrance quite similar to that of musk.
Its used as a spice in the East, and as a musk substitute in perfumery.
In India it is popularly known as Mushkdana or Kasturi Bhendi.
Ambrette Seed Oil is extracted from the musky, kidney- shaped, fully ripened seeds. The oil should be allowed to mature for a few months before use in flavours or fragrances, to allow the fatty acid notes to subdue and a rich, sweet, floral-musky almost wine-like or brandy like odour to develop.
Features of Ambrette Seed Oil
Ambrette seed is very complex with an unbelievable obstinacy (perceptible at .01-.04mg %). The Refractive Index is 1.45700 to 1.46500 @ 20.00 °C and Specific Gravity is 0.91200 – 0.94100 @ 25.00 C. The oil is yellow in colour with a characteristic smell and its bio-chemical class is Sesquiterpenol.
The bio-chemicals contain in the oil is 23 – 27 % essential oil containing 60 – 75 % farnesyl acetate, 5 – 10 % ambrettolide, heptyl-, decyl- and nerolidol acetate and farnesol. The INCI name of Ambrette seed Co2 oil is hibiscus abelmoschus seed extract.
Blends Well With
Supercritical co2 extraction ambrette seed oil is known for its laudable effects in perfumes. It blends well with rose, neroli, sandalwood, and find an important place in more sophisticated blends. Supercritical co2 extraction ambrette seed oil or the Hibiscus abelmoschus, is the only natural musk available on the market, that is not animal derived. It has an obstinate, dry note and this oil is an intense aphrodisiac, giving any blend a smooth, sultry, depth, which has to be experienced to be appreciated.
When you are looking for a good choice of calming, grounding oil this is the perfect choice of oil. It adds deep challenging notes without distinctive feminine influence unlike other aphrodisiac blends.
History of Ambrette Seed Oil
Ambrette is primarily cultivated for its musk scents. however, there are other medicinal uses as well. In Malaysia, its scents are mixed in cosmetics to give a fresh fragrance.
In India, it is mainly grown in the Deccan terrain, hilly parts of Karnataka, in the foothills of Himalaya. Traditionally, people from different tribes used ambrette as a medicine. In fact, there are historical proofs for the use of musk scent.
The Dukes used it for its aroma, decorative purposes, and to cure various health problems like hysteria, gonorrhea, menstrual disorders, and respiratory disorders. The Philippines use its decoction to treat stomach cancer.
Musk mallow
Musk mallow has pretty pink flowers that can be seen along roadside verges, hedgerows and field margins in summer. It lives up to its name, producing a delicate, musky smell that increases indoors.
An elegant relative of Common mallow, Musk mallow has delicate pale pink flowers that appear in July and August. It grows on roadside verges and field edges, and in hedgerows, pastures and churchyards. It favours dry places and is a popular cottage garden plant.
The main production areas are in India and Ecuador. The flowers look like hibiscus flowers and mature in June or July each year. The harvested seeds can be directly distilled or crushed and then extracted with supercritical CO2.
The liquid essential oil obtained by direct extraction-Ambrette seed oil. Because it contains a certain amount of palmitic acid, it will initially have a “greasy” smell. It usually takes a few months to stand for a full display of the rich, sweet floral scent of musk and mallow. The aroma is similar to that of red wine or brandy, and it has a roundness that is difficult to match with other fragrance materials.”
How to identify
The saucer-shaped flowers of Musk mallow and have a musky smell, hence the common name. They have five petals, which are pale pink with fine, dark pink veins. The stems and deeply lobed leaves are hairy.
Despite its tropical origin the plant is frost hardy. The evergreen shrub grows well in India, and is cultivated in the West Indies, China and Indonesia.
CO2 ambrette seed oil
Supercritical CO2 extraction is a commonly used method for extracting Ambrette seed oil from the seeds of the Ambrette plant (Abelmoschus moschatus). Ambrette seed oil is highly valued in the fragrance industry for its musky aroma and is often used as a natural substitute for animal-based musk compounds. Supercritical CO2 extraction offers several advantages over other extraction methods, including its ability to efficiently extract delicate and volatile compounds while minimizing thermal degradation.
CO2 extraction process of ambrette seed oil
The process of supercritical CO2 extraction of Ambrette seed oil follows these general steps:
- Preparation of Ambrette Seeds: The mature Ambrette seeds are collected, dried, and cleaned to remove any impurities or foreign matter. The seeds are then ready for the extraction process.
- Loading the Extraction Vessel: The prepared Ambrette seeds are loaded into an extraction vessel or chamber designed to withstand high pressure. The vessel is sealed to create a closed system.
- Extraction: Supercritical CO2 is introduced into the extraction vessel, where it acts as a solvent to extract the desirable compounds, including the musky aromatic compounds, from the Ambrette seeds. The supercritical CO2 selectively dissolves the target compounds while leaving behind the non-volatile components.
- Separation: After the extraction, the supercritical CO2, along with the dissolved compounds, is transferred to a separation unit. The pressure is reduced in this unit, causing the CO2 to revert to a gas phase. The Ambrette seed oil, which is insoluble in gas-phase CO2, separates from the CO2 and is collected.
- Post-Processing: The collected Ambrette seed oil may undergo further refining or purification processes, such as filtration or distillation, to remove any residual impurities and obtain a pure and high-quality oil.
Benefits of Supercritical CO2 Extraction for Ambrette Seed Oil
- Selective Extraction: Supercritical CO2 extraction allows for selective extraction of the desired compounds from Ambrette seeds, including the musky aromatic compounds responsible for the characteristic fragrance. The operating parameters, such as temperature and pressure, can be adjusted to optimize the extraction of these specific compounds.
- Retention of Fragrance Profile: Supercritical CO2 extraction helps preserve the delicate and complex fragrance profile of Ambrette seed oil. The low temperatures used in the process minimize the degradation of volatile aromatic compounds, ensuring that the extracted oil retains its characteristic musky aroma.
- Solvent-Free and Safe: Supercritical CO2 extraction is a solvent-free process that utilizes carbon dioxide as the extraction medium. CO2 is non-toxic, non-flammable, and generally recognized as safe for use in food and pharmaceutical applications. This eliminates concerns about residual solvent contamination in the final Ambrette seed oil.
- Environmentally Friendly: Supercritical CO2 extraction is considered environmentally friendly due to its reduced use of organic solvents and minimal waste generation. CO2 used in the extraction process can be easily recycled and reused, contributing to a more sustainable extraction method.
Conclusion
Supercritical CO2 extraction is a highly effective and selective method for extracting Ambrette seed oil, which is prized for its musky fragrance. This extraction process allows for the retention of the delicate fragrance profile while ensuring the safety and purity of the final product. With its solvent-free nature, environmental benefits, and ability to extract volatile compounds efficiently, supercritical CO2 extraction is a preferred method for obtaining high-quality Ambrette seed oil for use in the fragrance industry.